Who’d have thought that in the early years of the nineteen nineties, a young twenty-something would spend a few months in the summer in a place no-one had heard of – and that it would become the place closest to his heart?
In the summer of 1993, our founder Mark spent his first Albanian experience in Vlorë. Back then it was a port city best known for the haunting image of refugees crowding a ship to escape Albania just a year or so earlier. if you’ve never seen the footage, it is extraordinary and worth a moment of your time:
Now, of course, it is best known as the gateway to Albania’s stunning Ionian Riviera.
Those few months were wildly different to anything you can expect to see today.
As a foreigner, everyone stared. Many Albanians had never seen someone from outside their own shores – it was certainly a stop-and-look moment. Nowadays, of course, no-one bats an eyelid.
Time was spent helping at an orphanage – beautiful children given up by their parents because of some physical or mental disability. The building is long gone, replaced by one of the many apartment blocks that now overlook the sea where the Adriatic meets the Ionian.
The beach was pretty much deserted, save for the odd stray cow and the month of August – when it was finally deemed acceptable to “hit the beach.” It is not like that anymore. The stunning new Lungomare is a testament to one of the best infrastructure developments anywhere in Albania in the last decade.
And then there were the bus rides — a 1940s Czech bus with a dangerously low roof, always overcrowded, always eventful. At 6 feet 6 inches, Mark learned quickly to make a beeline for the extra headroom afforded by the popped-open sunroof. Much to the considerable amusement of the more vertically challenged locals.
From 1993 to 2003: and the City in Between
Scroll forward nine or so years and Vlorë became home for a couple of years to the recently married Mark and his young family. The city had already developed significantly – the orphanage was never found again.
Lazy days at Dalan Beach in the now-topical Narta Lagoon and Zvernec area were alternated with drives up and down the Riviera – taking in Radhimë, Orikum, the Llogara Pass and Dhërmi, all very different to how they look today. Even then it was largely undiscovered and, to be honest, part of us wished it would stay that way.
There was work too, of course – balancing important beach time with church life, relationship building, and learning both the language and the culture. Albania had a way of getting under the skin even then.
Vlorë in 2026: Unrecognisable, and Magnificent
Vlorë today is honestly unrecognisable from 2003 — let alone 1993.
The main boulevard has undergone a genuinely impressive transformation. Wide, pedestrian-friendly pavements lined with palm trees now accompany good shops, restaurants and cafés in what has become a genuinely pleasant city centre to spend time in.
The Lungomare — Vlorë’s long seafront promenade — is the jewel in the city’s crown. Stretching along the public beach, it is lined with bars, restaurants and cafés and comes alive in the evenings with locals and visitors alike. It is night and day from how it looked even ten years ago, and a genuinely wonderful place to spend a long Albanian evening. The sea here, where the Adriatic meets the Ionian, has a particular quality of light that is hard to describe and impossible to forget.
What to See and Do in Vlorë
Vlorë is far more than a gateway to the Riviera – it is a destination in its own right, and one of the richest in Albania for history, culture and natural beauty.
The Old Town
Vlorë’s Old Town has undergone a superb and sensitive transformation in recent years. Atmospheric lanes, traditional architecture and a genuinely local feel make it one of the most enjoyable areas to explore on foot and one that most visitors, rushing south to the beaches, overlook entirely. Don’t make that mistake.
The Museum of Independence
Vlorë holds a unique place in Albanian history as the city where independence was declared on 28 November 1912. The museum where that declaration was signed is a fascinating and moving stop. Essential context for understanding the country you are travelling through.
Kuzum Baba
A hilltop Bektashi shrine with panoramic views over the bay and the city below. The views alone are worth the climb, and the spiritual and cultural significance of the site adds another dimension to what might otherwise be just a viewpoint.
Zvernec Monastery
One of the most atmospheric sites in the whole of Albania: a medieval island monastery reached by a wooden causeway across the lagoon. Peaceful, ancient, and deeply evocative, Zvernec is the kind of place that stays with you long after you leave.
Narta Lagoon
The extraordinary protected wetland landscape that surrounds Zvernec. It’s a haven for migratory birds, flamingoes and seals, and currently at the centre of the Flamingo Revolution protests that have made international headlines. Whether or not you follow the politics, the lagoon itself is an environmental paradise and one of the most beautiful natural landscapes in Albania.
Kaninë Castle
Perched dramatically on the hillside above the city, the ruins of Kaninë Castle offer sweeping views over Vlorë Bay and the Ionian Sea. The site has layers of history stretching back to the Byzantine era, and the walk up rewards with scenery as much as history.
Plazh i Vjetër (Old Beach)
For a quieter, sandier alternative to the main Lungomare beach, head to Plazh i Vjetër on the road towards Zvernec. Less developed, more relaxed, and with the kind of unhurried atmosphere that reminds you why you came to Albania rather than somewhere more obvious.
Apollonia
Strictly speaking just outside Vlorë, but easily reached on the road north: the ancient Greek and Roman city of Apollonia is one of the finest archaeological sites in the Balkans. Beautifully preserved, set in stunning countryside, and remarkably uncrowded. If you are passing through on your way to or from Tirana, do not miss it.
Boat Trips to Karaburun Peninsula and Sazan Island
The waters around Vlorë offer some of the most extraordinary boat trip opportunities in the entire Mediterranean. The Karaburun Peninsula is a protected national park. Wild, dramatic coastline accessible only by sea, with caves, hidden coves and crystal-clear water that will take your breath away. Sazan Island, Albania’s only island, sits just offshore and has its own fascinating history as a former military base. Most boat trips combine both in a full-day excursion that is genuinely unforgettable.
Vlorë as a Base for the Riviera
Vlorë’s position makes it one of the best bases on the entire Albanian Riviera for those who want to combine history and culture with coastal beauty. The Llogara Pass is one of the most spectacular drives in the Mediterranean. Less than an hour away it opens up Dhërmi, Himara and the southern Riviera beyond. In the other direction, Apollonia and the road north to Berat and Tirana are all within comfortable reach.
For travellers who want more than just a beach holiday, and who want to understand Albania rather than simply pass through it, Vlorë rewards properly. Deeply.
Planning Your Visit to Vlorë
We build Vlorë into many of our Albania itineraries – often as a final chapter before heading home, giving travellers the chance to end their trip with history, coastline and a long evening on the Lungomare.
If you’d like to include Vlorë in your Albania holiday, we’d love to help you plan it.
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✉️ info@experiencealbania.co.uk
🌍 www.experiencealbania.co.uk
